litter training

u can get the litter pan or litter box from petshop

u also can use this type of tray.affordable right :B
see how cute this bunny poo poo inside the tray..goodboy!

It makes sense to start at the beginning; right? Well here goes:

So you've decided to get a house Rabbit. I can ensure you that you've made a great decision as Rabbits are not only outdoor creatures, but also loving, entertaining and intelligent pets when you spend a great deal of time with them. One of the primary concerns when looking into keeping a bunny indoors is the mess that it might make. Rabbits are in fact just as easily house trained as cats and dogs (perhaps even more so...ours litter trained himself!). They're incredibly clean animals in general and will spend 15 minutes washing when all they stepped in was a little patch of water.

So how is it done?

It's a good idea to buy a rabbit potty. They can be found at most good pet stores and are simply little trays that you fill with shavings. and place in a corner. When you bring any new pet into your home you should leave it locked inside its cage for 24 hours so it gets used to its surroundings (new smells, sights and sounds). You will notice that the rabbit has chosen a corner or its cage to wee in during this time (a rabbit in a new environment will do 'territorial droppings' which are widely spread so don't worry about this). Take a little of the soiled shavings and put it into the potty; that way when you let the bunny out he will smell it and know that this is a good area to wee in. The droppings should follow.

I should stress that Rabbit droppings are nothing to worry about. Unless your bunny is ill or not eating the right diet then his droppings will (as soon as they pop out!) be rock hard and very small. A large percentage of their droppings is simply fibre and they can be picked up/hoovered up with no mess at all. NOTE: If you see your bunny eating his poo's then don't stop him. Rabbits are supposed to do this as their food sometimes doesn't get properly digested the first time it goes through. It's healthy behaviour!

I won't deny that during the first couple of weeks (or up until they're neutered) your bunny may be weeing in awkward places. This is them marking their territory and you should keep a damp cloth handy for any messy incidents. We had a problem with Achilles for the first few weeks we had him where he would wee on the sofa's about once a week. He soon learned that this was wrong (we put him in his cage as soon as he did it) and now he's a good boy and uses his cage, toilet and cushion.

"How can we avoid accidents?"

Bunnys are well known for getting excited and as with any young mammal, sometimes accidents happen. As before, simply put them in their cage so that they realise this behaviour is unacceptable and wipe it with a damp cloth. It shouldn't stain. As the bunny grows older the accidents should stop.

"My bunny has started going to the toilet on a cushion"

Now I don't know if every house rabbit owner experiences this but when we left a cushion on the floor one day, Achilles fell in love with it. He started 'digging' in it, licking it, biting it and jumping all over it until eventually, he weed on it. Since it was an old cushion and it was so funny seeing how excited he was we donated it to him and now he uses it as a toilet (he knows that cushions on the sofa and cushions on the floor have different rules).

If this has happened to you and you're not happy with it then simply take the cushion away and tell him off when he starts fussing over it (a stern 'NO', clapping of the hands or stamp of your foot should do the trick) and he/she will get the picture. Sometimes Achilles sits on the back of his cushion and pees off the back of it by accident. He's trying to be a good boy so we don't tell him off but put a little towel underneath it to make sure.

indoor rabbit

Keeping rabbits indoors at home is becoming more and more popular with the general public these days. If you are considering this and need more advice on how to house train your rabbit then you have come to the right site. If trained properly from the right age a rabbit can be a very clean friendly house pet..

It is imperative to start with the rabbit(s) from a young age. Between 8 and 10 weeks is the perfect age to buy a rabbit and start to train them. By doing this you will be speeding up the learning process, as like humans much depends on how we was brought up from a young age.

Before bringing your rabbit home make sure that you have a suitable cage, food, water and toys available. It is important to keep the cage in the same place in the first few months whilst they are still becoming familiar with their surroundings.

When the rabbit first comes to your home you should keep him/her in the cage for a minimum of 24 hours. I would personally recommend up to 48 hours. This gives the rabbit a chance to feel that the cage is a safe place for them that offers security. The cage should contain hay or straw, and i would advise newspaper underneath this to soak up any unwanted mess. The rabbit will then find a place where it will want to go to the toilet. You will find that this will usually be in one of the corners of the cage. Once you have identified where he/she likes to toilet then you can place a litter tray in this area. One similiar to a cat litter tray will be fine. It is a good idea to put some of the hay or straw in to the litter tray.

Try to place food, or the food bowl reasonably close the litter tray, this will encourage the rabbits to return to the litter tray once they have finished eating.

After a day or 2 you can now introduce the rabbit to the house, by allowing him/her out of the cage. At first the rabbit may be hard to catch and shy. If you find that he or she is doing droppings outside of the cage then you should put back in the cage each time and onto the tray. This can be frustrating and long winded but it has worked for me. It follows the same advice given to training a puppy (e.g putting them out in the garden each time they deposit)..

Treats should be given to the rabbit by or even on the litter tray from a young age; again encouraging them to use the tray when feeding.

The links at the top and side of the page will be able to help you with further stages, such as when the rabbit reaches puberty. This can be a very challenging time for the owner, so a good idea to read up on this if you are considering keeping rabbits indoors!

poo poo and pee pee in the right place

Never punish your rabbit for peeing in the wrong place.
You can't punish them for it, they doesn't have a sense of right and wrong, and behaving aggressively towards your rabbit will only make him frightened in the long run.
Just keep your bunny off the wrong place and corral him in a place where toileting is okay until he picks that as his new toilet spot.

entertain your bunny

A bored bunny is a bad bunny, and many rabbits are bored simply because their owners have little appreciation for how smart they are, and how much they need to play and 'work' their brains. If you got a rabbit because you thought they were a dull but pretty creature that would sit in a small cage all day, then you chose the wrong pet, and should think about getting a goldfish instead!

The good news is that there are many simple ways to entertain your rabbit, stimulate its mind, and keep it out of trouble. Read on to find out just how to keep your bunny healthy in mind not just body.

Flip and Toss

Bunnies quite often love to throw things around. Some rabbits will even attack things if you roll them towards them, much like a dog would do. There are a lot of small toys available for rabbits, usually made from some form of sisal or cane that are perfect for being picked up in a bunny's mouth and thrown around.

Chewing

Of course, a big part of a bunny's repertoire is chewing. If a rabbit doesn't have good toys to chew on, it will soon start chewing things it shouldn't. Obsessive chewing is also a sign of neurosis, which can develop when your rabbit is just plain bored with everything.

Remodeling

Giving your bunny something to 'remodel' will give its natural burrow building instincts a work out, and hopefully save your furniture. Cardboard boxes make excellent remodeling centers for rabbits. Tape them up, cut a couple of holes in them so the rabbit can run through, and you have a toy that the rabbit can chew to its satisfaction, not to mention run around, hide in and behind, and other fun bunny things.

Obstacles

Change your bunny' environment up a bit now and then. Cardboard boxes, as mentioned in the previous section, are excellent toys (as long as bunny isn't eating the boxes) because they are light, cheap, very bunny friendly, and they provide literally hours of entertainment for rabbits, who love to sprint around them, run through them, and nibble bigger holes in them to their hearts content.

What this all really comes down to is a need for play and toys. I have written a whole lot of hubs on this subject, including ones with more expansive toy suggestions and inspirations. Not all bunnies play the same way, but all bunnies do want to play. If your rabbit seems to sit there all day and all night never doing anything, then it is probably bored out of its skull and going slowly mad.

impotance of hay

Everywhere you go, you'll see recommendations concerning the feeding of hay to rabbits. "Give your bunny all the hay it can eat!" They say, "Do not restrict your rabbit's hay consumption!" They tell us, "Bury Your Rabbits under piles and piles of hay!" Well, they don't say that, but bunnies would have a really great time digging their way out of that one, I am sure. (WARNING: To the sorts of people who put pets in the microwave to dry them off, I am NOT recommending that you bury your rabbit under a large amount of hay. Doing so may kill your bunny. It is a bad idea. Do not do it. Now go tape the oven mitts to your hands and go back to singing your little happy song.)

For those of you that are still left, here is the truth about hay.

Hay is good for your rabbit because those long fibers that hay is made from help the muscles of the bunny's gut stay good and strong. Hay keeps things moving inside the bunny's system, and can help prevent blockages that may kill your rabbit. Bunnies will chew on almost anything, they seem to have little concept of what they can digest and what they cannot digest. Keeping them well stocked with hay may also help to keep the fur and other weird foreign bodies moving through your rabbit's complex digestive system. A lack of hay can slow down your rabbit's intestinal functions and cause a multitude of problems. Hay is an essential part of your rabbit's diet, and you should no more leave your bunny without hay than you would leave it without water.

Rabbits need lots of fiber, and hay provides it to them. A good quality hay should not be too expensive, and is really essential for your rabbit's health and well being.

Is all hay equal?

NO! All hay is not equal. Like cereals, there are those that are good for you, and those that are tasty. Ideally, you should be feeding your bunny on the bran equivalent hay, timothy hay. Timothy hay is the most popular rabbit feeding hay, and probably the easiest for you to obtain, but oat hay, wheat hay and bahia hay are all also okay. Alfafa and Clover hays are tastier to your rabbit, but contain a great deal of calcium and protein, neither of which your bunny needs in large amounts.

You may be offered a choice between first and second cut hay. Once again, first cut is better for your bunny, but second cut is tastier. It's up to you to make the tough call.

That's it for this time bunny lovers. Be sure to make sure that your bunny gets plenty of hay, and he or she is sure to be a happier and healthier bunny for it!

feeding your rabbit

Grass and / or hay should make up the bulk of your rabbit's diet, and should always be available to it. Make sure if you do feed grass that it has not come from anywhere that has been treated with pesticides, or could have been.

Rabbits need to eat almost constantly whilst they are awake, and the roughage and long fibers in grass and hay are excellent for keeping their digestive systems moving. It is vital that a rabbit's digestive system is always moving, so please never let your rabbit go without food, even overnight. Rabbits are crepuscular creatures, which means they tend to be more active around dawn and dusk, but they can also be active at varying times through the day and the night. Therefore they always need to have food on hand, and it should be hay or grass.

Pellets can also make up part of a rabbit's diet, but be sparing in their feeding, especially brands that contain little treats and seeds mixed in with the pellets. These foods are the equivalent of loading your rabbits up on cheeseburgers and fries, so whilst they will almost always want to eat these foods, you need to be careful about how much you feed them. Straight pellets are slightly better for your rabbit, but they are still often quite concentrated food sources, so should be fed in smaller amounts, and never as a sole source of nutrition.

Fresh Vegetables and some fruit make a great addition to a rabbit's diet, but should be fed only from 6 months onwards, and then in small amounts and introduced one at a time to a bunny's diet. Sudden dietary changes can upset a rabbit's digestive system, resulting in sickness and diarrhea which is not pleasant for owner or bunny. Carrot fed in small amounts is good for your bunny as it contains Vitamin A. Portions of apple will also go down quite well with most bunnies. You do have to be quite careful with vegetables and avoid those which can cause gas or bloating. Cabbage, cauliflower and broccoli are all not a great idea. The reason you have to be so careful is the fact that a rabbit cannot pass gas or burp. This means that feeding foods which produce gas can result in bloating, pain, and even death.

Veges that are okay for bunnies include:

• Carrot
• Beet TOPS
• Watercress
• Sprouts
• Parsely
• Wheatgrass

There is some argument over leafy vegetables such as lettuce, cabbage, spinach, and the like. Some say that they should never be fed to bunnies, others say that the darker leaf vegetables are okay in small amounts. Personally I find that it isn't worth the risk of accidentally harming the bunny simply in order to give it a wide variety of fresh vegetables. Stick with the safe foods and you can be sure that your bunny will be okay. They will not suffer if they don't become a vegetable connissuer, after all, the principle food of rabbits in the wild is simply various kinds of grass. There aren't too many vegetable gardens in the wild.

dealing with stinky rabbit

The Obvious

Clean the cage. Clean it twice daily if need be. Cleaning the cage can be a meditative experience, and it will ensure that droppings and odor do not build up in your home.

Use a Deodorizing Litter

This is generally only recommended if you have a wire rack keeping your rabbit away from the litter. Most litters, and especially the deodorizing ones, are poisonous to Rabbits, so be careful. Find out all about litters

Use A Litter Tray

If you train your rabbit to go in a litter tray, rather than its entire cage, you can change the tray several times daily. This can be an absolute godsend if you are in a hurry or like to keep things super clean, so it is highly recommended. Find out about litter training your bunny

Sprays and Deodorizers

These can help, and there are a multitude on the market. These are especially recommended if your fuzzy little darling has had an accident on the carpet or upholstery. This shouldn't be too much of a problem if they have been litter trained, but sudden changes in bunny's routine or lifestyle can cause accidents, so be prepared.

Proper housing, litter, training, and cleaning habits should be all you need to keep your bunny in good stead with your olfactory organs. It can be hard work, but the rewards of having a happy house bunny are well worth it.

NOTE: You may also have odor problems if your bunny is not passing its 'night droppings', (the soft fecal matter), properly. If your bunny does not have enough fiber in its diet, these droppings can cake and matt onto the rabbit's fur, creating a stinky, disgusting mess. This is just one of the reasons that feeding your rabbit as much hay as it wants is of paramount importance. Learn the other reasons

trimming nails

Rabbits need their nails/claws trimmed regularly, unless you happen to live with them on rocky outcroppings, in which case they probably have other things to worry about. Rabbits have constantly growing nails, and if they are left to grow unchecked, they can lead to health problems and pain for your rabbit. Think of it like your own toenails, would you leave them to grow long and curl over on themselves, and become horny and thick and yellow? You probably would not, (unless you were going for some sort of Guinness World Record.) If you're new to rabbit keeping, you may find that clipping the nails/claws is a scary proposition. You don't want to hit the nerve and make your darling rabbit bleed of course, and you will probably find that the rabbit isn't all that keen on having his or her nails clipped either, which means you will be entering into a battle with a tiny creature that isn't afraid to hurt you or itself. It can be a difficult and dangerous task, but here is a basic guide that should leave you both unscathed:

Get the nail clippers.

Get the bunny. If the bunny is not used to being handled, then you should spend some time familiarizing him or her with being petted and handled. You should be doing this over a period of weeks, and by the time it comes to clip the nails, you should at least be on nose butting terms, if not, you haven't been spending enough time with your bunny, and may be a bad bunny owner. Spending time with your bunny should not only be enjoyable time for you, but it makes necessary tasks like nail/claw clipping much easier and safer.

Even if the bunny is used to handling, the bunny may not be overly pleased about having his or her nails clipped. The bunny views him or herself as an autonomous creature who doesn't need you for anything. They are the Masters and Mistresses of their domain. They will not willingly submit to your clumsy manhandling, any more than a pretty princess would go willingly to live under a bridge with a troll. This means that you are going to have to get a firm grip on the bunny. I find it is easiest to place the rabbit on your lap whilst you sit cross legged, and use the forearm to keep the bunny pressed snugly to your body whilst the hand of the same arm takes hold of the foot gently but firmly and isolate the claw to be trimmed. This position allows the bunny to be pinned and lifted a little, rendering struggles useless in a safe fashion that won't get the bunny hurt. At all costs, make sure the bunny is safe and don't pin it by its neck or head. Bunnies are well known for being unable to asses the consequences of their struggles before they ensue, and you want a bunny with nicely clipped nails, not a dead bunny.

Carefully clip the tip of the nail, do NOT go too far along the length of the nail, even if it has grown a little long. Unless the nerve is very clearly visible, which is often not the case with rabbits who have darker claws, you must be careful. Trim back slowly, taking a little at a time. You may have to repeat this process over several days.

If you do go too deep you will hurt the bunny, the bunny will bleed, and probably kick or bite the living hell out of you. This will be your fault, as you were told to be careful, weren't you :P

Let the rabbit go gently, and be prepared to dissuade it from biting you in revenge. Give a treat instead to help ease the mortification that the rabbit no doubt feels. You may be in his or her bad books for a while, the subject of haughty looks and disdainful foot flicking. Don't let it get to you, being a bunny owner isn't just about the good times, sometimes you have to be firm too.

discipline bunny

Bunny is quite naughty. Rabbits are always sticking their noses into things they shouldn't, chewing things they shouldn't and biting that which they shouldn't, which sometimes includes you =B

When dealing with rabbits, the best discipline is prevention, or as the old wives would say, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. If you have things you don't want your rabbit to chew on, get them out of the way. If you leave your new pants on the floor where bunny can get at them and subsequently chew enough holes in them to make them more like a sieve than pants, then really it's your own fault.

Bunny proofing the areas your rabbit is allowed in is the first step to effective control of your rabbit's behavior. However, no matter how much you bunny proof, it is almost certain that your rabbit will find naughty things to do, so you really do need to come up with some strategy of coping in those situations.

The first thing you shouldn't do, is hit them in any fashion. A rabbit will not construe any form of smack as a constructive comment on their behavior, instead they will become angry, affronted, and possibly even more aggressive. It is difficult enough to establish a good relationship with a rabbit when you treat it as if it were the king or queen of the world, let alone if you dare lay a hand upon it.

Rabbits aren't dogs, they're not going to really learn a great deal of English commands. 'NO' can be quite effective, although it is more a case of tone and pitch being indicators of trouble rather than any recognition of the word itself. If your rabbit bites you, a shrill squeal can be an effective deterrent, and clapping your hands or shouting are also good ways to get a bunny to stop the activity it is engaging in. You may be the recipient of some dirty looks and foot stamps for your effrontery, but the bunny will at least have ceased the activity.

You can also try turning your back on your rabbit, and/or stamping your foot as they do. These are powerful indicators of disdain in the rabbit world, and should your rabbit care what you think, they may be quite effective.

To conclude, it is probably best to think of your bunny as a small, haughty, cyclonic force of nature. You can corral it and provide it with outlets upon which to vent, such as toys, which are very important unless you want your bunny chewing the skirting or other household fixtures. You can cease behavior on a one off basis by the hand clapping or no shouting method, but at the end of the day, disciplining a rabbit is like herding cats, or houseflies, whichever is harder.

gain trust from rabbit

In order to have a good relationship with your bunny, your bunny must trust you. Remember, in the wild, rabbits are prey animals, and even though they often live inside with humans, they never forget that they are easy prey for predators. Owners often have to do things that their bunnies dislike, such as grooming and nail clipping. These sorts of activities can unfortunately make your bunny mistrust you, especially if you are rough with them. Some rabbits may also not like to be picked up, and picking them up may also make them wary of you.

Bunnies can be cuddly, but they will always be cuddly on their own terms. So if you want your rabbit to trust you and be your friend, you have to be willing to spend quiet time with the bunny, just letting it get used to you.

I recommend just sitting on the floor with the bunny, not touching it, not holding it, not petting it, just being with it. You will find that as your bunny gets used to you, it will start coming closer to you to investigate you. Let it investigate you, and again, do not touch it. If the bunny learns that whenever it comes close to you, you grab it and mess with it, it will stay away from you.

Eventually, your bunny will nose you, and press it's head against you. When it does this, give it a gentle rub on its head between its ears. Bunnies absolutely love head rubs, and I do mean absolutely love them. Most rabbits don't like being touched under the head or on the back of their body, but they will happily allow you to pat their heads for hours. This is the first step to gaining your rabbit's trust. Do this often enough and you will find that the rabbit soon comes to you just for rubs. When your rabbit comes hopping up to you and nudges you to give it head rubs, then you will know that it trusts you and likes you.

Over time you can teach your bunny to be held for short periods of time and maybe even be picked up happily. Of course, some rabbits never get used to being picked up, although you will need to teach them to at least tolerate being held and picked up so that they can be groomed, their nails can be clipped and they can be given veterinary treatment.

Your rabbit may not always be happy with you, and if you are the one who does all the 'mean' tasks like grooming and clipping, it may prefer family members who only give it good attention and head rubs. As the owner though, your responsibility is first to make sure that your rabbit is healthy and then to make sure that your rabbit is happy with you.

choosing names for ur bunny

Choosing a name for your bunny is one of the fun things about getting a new rabbit. But sometimes its just so hard to come up with any inspiration. Your bunny's name shouldn't just be cute, it should also be easy for the Rabbit to understand. Easy names to understand are those that sound a little different from everyday speech. It helps if the bunny's name is one that is fun for you to say, or makes you laugh, as the tone in your voice will also influence how quickly the bunny learns its name.

If you're having trouble coming up with a name for your rabbit, you can ask friends or family, or look up in a book of baby names. Sometimes the best names come to you when you're not even thinking about them. There's no need to be in a rush to name your bunny either, you have plenty of time to get to know your bunny and see what kind of temperament it has before deciding on a name for good. Alternatively, it can sometimes be nice to let someone else name your bunny, like a brother or sister.

If you're still stuck thinking about what to call that cute little bunny you have, here are some fun bunny names.

Boo, Brat, Basil, Binky,
Coco, Cuddles, Chewy
Dax
Eddie, Edge (whoaa wrestler man :P), Ezekiel (errr..unique btw), EVOO
Fluffy, Flopsy, Flick
Gonzo, Grumpy, Grizelda
Hoppy
Kritter, Krull
Loopy, Lottie
Mopsy, Musashi
Ox, Olive, Onyx
Poppy (oh it reminds me of coach poppy tote), Puff
Xena

rabbit's cage

The cage that houses your rabbit is the most important purchase that you make when you get your new bunny. Since different rabbit cages can be browsed on shopping sites, this article deals more with aspects of cages that you might not think about at first. While a rabbit can live quite happily roaming freely around your house, a cage or rabbit hutch is still necessary for house-breaking purposes. In addition, it’s nice for your rabbit to have a place to itself. The rabbit will recognize that the cage is its own private spot and go about making it a personalized comfortable space. There are many things to consider when buying a rabbit cage such as size, portability, material, and cost. Don’t be afraid to spend a little bit more for a larger or better constructed cage; after all, this will be your bunny’s refuge from the hustle and bustle of daily life. It’s not easy hopping around and eating hay all day so it’s nice to have a special place for rabbit relaxation. A rabbit cage or rabbit hutch is a perfect haven for your pet.

One of the first things you’ll do with your rabbit is house train it, and this takes place in the cage. The rabbit might not get a chance to leave the cage until it’s properly housebroken so make sure it has a space that’s large enough to actually live in for a period of time. Something to consider for yourself: you will be interacting with the cage on a regular basis when it comes to cleaning and refuse removal. So pick a cage that easily lends itself to cleaning. Numerous compartments and levels are fun for the rabbit, but will you have time to conscientiously take apart a bunny palace on a regular basis? If yes, then great, but a clean simple cage is better than a dirty complicated one.

Another factor to consider is that rabbit cages won’t only contain the rabbit. You might have a food dish, or maybe there’s a built-in food dispenser. The same goes for water. Rabbits also love toys and something to chew on. Then there is the all-important element of what lines the floor. Depending on your preference, you might have wood chips, a mat, or even carpet. And don’t forget that your rabbit will probably grow. If you get your rabbit as a baby, this will surely be the case as some types of rabbits are known to grow up to four times in size. The main point is, when considering the size of your cage also think about everything that will go in it. Add to that the need for your rabbit to be able to move and play, and you should get an idea of the appropriate size of your rabbit cage.

Eventually, you will probably want to give your rabbit the freedom to roam around the house. This is where the type of door on different rabbit cages comes into play. If you prefer to keep control of when your rabbit has household access, then a cage with a top door would be preferable as you can lift you bunny and plop him down when you feel the time is appropriate. If you trust your rabbit won’t ransack your house then go ahead and get a cage with a side door that it can use whenever it wants. Ideally, your rabbit will be trained to know its cage area is its bathroom and return whenever necessary on its own. A rabbit cage should be secure, but it’s also not a jail, so try to find one that makes the rabbit comfortable being inside or away from it.

The final point to consider is that your first rabbit cage or rabbit hutch may not be your only and final one. As you get to know your rabbit, you will learn about its distinct personality. It might not like to be picked up thereby making a top door an unpleasant accessory that leads to your hands getting scratched. Maybe your rabbit unexpectedly grows to a size that makes getting out of its current cage a physical impossibility. Or your rabbit could very well turn out to be runner who really enjoys wide open spaces. With time, you will be able to better tell what type of living environment your rabbit will truly enjoy as the cage that was once appropriate for your baby bunny may eventually need a replacement. And if you are feeling especially in tune with your rabbit, you can venture to the hardware store to get supplies and build your very own rabbit paradise. Whatever the case, take the time to consider your rabbit’s needs, and observe how it responds to the cage that should be holding an incredibly happy bunny.

handling your rabbit

As a bunny owner, one of your biggest challenges may be handling your rabbit. This is because oftentimes, rabbits don't particularly like to be held, which means that they struggle, growl, and occasionally bite and scratch. Even if they do these things however, that doesn't mean you shouldn't handle them. It does mean that you will have to take some time to establish a better bond between you and your bunny. This is a guide for the beginner bunny owner and takes you through the first steps of handling your rabbit.

Step One:

Pet your bunny. You have to walk before you can run, and petting your bunny is the first step towards being able to pick it up and handle it. Bunnies like to have their heads gently scratched and rubbed, but they generally do not like to be touched under the chin or around their hind quarters. If you want to earn your rabbit's trust, giving it a gentle head rub is an excellent way of doing that. After a while your rabbit may even start running up to you and demanding that you pat it.

Step Two:

Put the bunny in your lap. Sit on the floor with the bunny and gently put the bunny in your lap. Let it run off if it wants to, but let it get used to the idea that being picked up and put in your lap is not the end of the world. If you cannot pick your rabbit up at all, try luring it into your lap with treats.

Step Three:

Try holding your bunny. Odds are that your rabbit will not like being restrained. Remember, these are prey animals, and to them, being held down or trapped by a bigger creature often means death. Is there really any wonder that they fight so hard to be let go? Bonding with your rabbit in the first two steps, and being gentle but firm when you do pick the bunny up will go a long way to helping your bunny become more amenable to being picked up.

Picking Up Bunny Checklist:

Support the bunny under its chest

Support the hindquarters

Hold the bunny close to your body. Let it rest against your body if you can. This will provide it much more security.

Once you've picked your bunny up, hold it for a few seconds, or until it stops struggling, and then release it gently. Rabbits will often start struggling again when they feel themselves being released, so make sure you do this very close to the ground. Giving the bunny a treat may sweeten the experience as well. Beware that once you put the rabbit down it may try to bite you for your effrontery. This is where fast feet (yours, not the rabbit's) come in handy!

basic facts for newbie

Here I would like to give you an idea of what you'd be getting yourself into if you were to get a pet rabbit, or what you may have already gotten into if you are new to rabbit keeping.

Rabbits are not low maintenance pets. You will need to spend time socializing your rabbit, petting it, and allowing it to run free in a safe and confined space every now and then. Rabbits are very intelligent, highly active animals that need exercise and crave attention.


1. DIET
Rabbits generally thrive on a diet of pellets, an unlimited supply of hay (they should be allowed to free feed), and treats of fresh foods such as carrot, and apple. These last foods should not be given in large amounts as they carry high amounts of sugar and starch, which can make your bunny sick. Hay and pellets are the key ingredients to a healthy bunny diet. The pellets should not be filled with nuts, fruit and seeds. While this may look pretty, they are not part of a bunny's natural diet, and can cause health problems and icky fecal messes.

2. BITE?
Rabbits can nip and bite, especially if time is not taken to socialize them well.

3. GROOMING
Rabbits also need to be groomed. Long hair rabbits may need daily grooming, and even short haired rabbits will need their nails clipped regularly to prevent them from over growing.

4. TOILET TRAINED?
Rabbits are house pets and can be toilet trained. They have a strong natural instinct to go in one spot, which they establish fairly early on. Establish this spot as being in their cage, and they will return to their cage to go potty instead of going on your carpet.

5. CHEWERS
Rabbits are huge chewers, so your home will need to be rabbit proofed. Houseplants and cords are two bunny favorites that can cause inconvenience, sickness, and death if chewed on, so make sure that these are not in the bunny's way.

6. TOYS
You will need bunny toys for your bunny to play with. They delight in chewing, ripping things up, and tossing things around. A bored bunny is a bad bunny, and will take its instincts out on your furniture and fixtures.


Rabbits can be very mischievous and delight in doing things you don't want them to do. Like any pet, they demand care and attention. They are quite similar to cats in many ways, and rabbits are known to form strong bonds with their owners.